About
Pockets, pockets all sizes and spiders to match! Good climbing in this hidden away venue.
Directions
From parking walk along the bridleway access lane past the Cyrn cottage. Enter the forest via a wooden gate (No Public Right of Way). Turn right. The path runs parallel to the bridleway. After a short way a fence corner is reached, take a steep path up the forested hillside to the alcove crag half hidden from below.
| # | Name | Grade | Description |
|---|
| 1 | Low Traverse | 6A | L-R traverse. From the horizontal break on Green Slab drop as low as possible to follow increasingly difficult pockets finishing up over the cave. |
| 2 | Green Slab | 4 | The warm up problem, made easy or hard by using, or not, the horizontal break at 5’, finish at the highest pocket on the green slab. |
| 3 | Broken Arrow | 5 | The original problem and one of the best 51. From the sloping foot slot move up using a right pointing arrow head pocket on the left to balance up right to a deep pocket. |
| 4 | Chemical Poison | 5+ | A direct version of Broken Arrow using an upward finger pocket. |
| 5 | Alien | 6C | A slot at 6’ starts a series of intricate visciously thin moves up the overhanging wall to finish at the ‘bat slot’. |
| 6 | UFO | 6A | 51’s must do problem, excellent. Start beneath and slightly right of the ‘bat slot’ finishing hold, up to a painfully sharp hold below a small bulging roof with a dusty hold above on the right, the crux is reaching the ‘bat slot’ pocket. |
| 7 | Restricted Zone | 5 | Move upto a pinch and gain the dusty hold on UFO pull up right to the break. |
| 8 | Newclear Holds | 6A | As Restricted Zone, move up over the cave, pull through the bulge on slopers to a sandy break. |
| 9 | Phone Home | 5 | Up right out of the cave via a sharp crinkle layaway, step left above the cave and pull upto the break. |
