Nesscliffe - The Alley (the Far Buttress) 1
Technical sandstone at its best, make sure your fingers are ready!
From the parking area enter the woods and turn right. Follow the main path until a large oak tree is reached halfway along the field fence. Just past the oak tree the rhododendrons on your left clear and you can make your way up the bank.
|1||Airline||6A||At the very left end of the wall are some short vertical scratches below the break at 3’,just to the right a huge reach or use a hidden undercling in the break to reach slots on the break at 8’ and a round pocket above to finish. |
|2||Big Babe||6A||Right of Airline is a broken flat rib hgh up. A perfect undercling in the break at 4’ isneeded to reach a good pocket at 8’ below the broken rib, commit up left to a hold left of a scoop.|
|3||Superman||6B+||Left to right traverse of the low break|
|4||Ho Chi Min||6A+||From the pocket on Big Babe at 8’ climb the rib and pockets above to the break. Down climb from here or push on up the slab for Hang Loose E3 6b.|
|5||Statins||6C||To the right of Ho Chi Min, up the crimpy underclings to the pockets. (Harder for the short, V8??) The finish up and right into the groove is unclimbed and will make a brilliant highball route.|
|6||Cholesterol ||8A||Between Ho Chi Minh and Martians Are Here. Rock over rightwards to a tiny edge, and then slap for the break.|
|7||Cholesterol Traverse||7A||From a low start up the flake under Cholesterol, traverse right going first up and then down to make use of the best of the selection of crimps available. Finish at the wide foot ledge.|
|8||Martians Are Here||6A||8’ left of the corner a H carved on the rock. Follow the vertical vein to a hold on the left in the break. This problem is the start of the route Humble Origins E5 6b.|
|9||Twiggy||5+||Just right of Martians are Here is a small brown slab with a small roof above it at the break, climb almost direct to the slab and roof, hard finish.|
|10||Robbed||6B+||Using a small pocket with your left hand, three finger drag to get a high foot and reach a poor slot with your right. Finish at the break out left|