Nesscliffe - Kynastons Cave Wall
About
Easy access with a high concentration problems makes these walls the most popular area at the crag.
Directions
From the car park enter the woods and turn right and follow the main path until you reach the stairs. From the top of the stairs follow the track on your left up the hillside. When you reach the bold arete of Open Air (E3) continue straight to soon find yourself at Kynastons Cave. (Slab, Scoop and Ed's wall are adjoining)
| # | Name | Grade | Description |
|---|
| 1 | Sharp Slap | 6A | From sitting, climb up the wall right of the corner. |
| 2 | The Highway Man’s Escape Route | 6C | From the corner left of Jug U’L, traverse right staying low until the end of the roof. |
| 3 | Jug U La | 5+ | Up the niche to the jug rail. Following the rail all the way to the right. |
| 4 | Dead Head | 6A | From sitting below the widest part of the roof, the obvious pull throught the overlap then direct to the jug rail. |
| 5 | Sand Dish | ?? | ???? |
| 6 | Meat Hooks | 6A | Tricky moves to get established on the slopey shelf left of Planch, then a long layaway to the break. |
| 7 | Meat Unhooked | ?? | Running problem using no hand holds up the line of meat hooks. |
| 8 | Did Nick Tick? | 6C+ | To the left of the Planch. Once you've chosen your holds, pull on and get a left foot on the top of the slopey ledge (Kneebar to help), up to mono crimp with left, pinch with right hand, then up left to the good jug in the break. |
| 9 | Planch | 7A | The difficult planch move from the sandy holds to the break. |
| 10 | Il Y A | 6C | Just left of Berlin's Fallen, undercut up with your right hand. |
| 11 | Stazi | 6C | Just left of Berlin's Fallen, undercut up with your left hand. |
| 12 | Berlin's Start | 6A | Up the zig zag flake to the break. The start of the route Berlin Wall E8 6c. |
| 13 | Berlin's Fallen | 6B+ | Up the flake then traverse right, with the trickiest moves at the end. |
| 14 | Reunification | 7B+ | From the finish of Berlins Fallen, follow the break leftwards along to reach the finishing hold of Planche. |
| 15 | Sabred Shield | 6B | Starting on the sharp shield as for berlins fallen stand straight up reaching for a sharp two finger pocket up and left then adjust feet and reach for deadpoint crimp under small roof. |
| 16 | Chipper | 5+ | The chipped flakes |
| 17 | Chipper Sit | 7A | The sit start to Chipper, much better than the stand start version. |
| 18 | CUN-Trol | 7A+ | Starts with Left Hand on the polished rail that is used for a foothold halfway through Berlins Fallen. Hop up to the sharp side pull with your right. After some high foot work you throw to the holds on the traverse. |
| 19 | Niche | 4 | Make an awkward step into the niche then hand traverse the short wall on the right |
| 20 | Berlin Wall Traverse | 7B | Left to right traverse from below the right end of the Jug U La roof to Niche |
| 21 | Full Berlin Wall Traverse | 7C | Left to right traverse from the corner, staying low through Jug U la and finishing at Niche. |
| 22 | The Super Travesre | ?? | Start in the corner and traverse to the end of Ed's wall. "Long, complex and spiritually tiring" |
